with a season-appropriate name of 'frankenpattern'!
for this cosy specimen, i have combined the sewaholic minoru and the victory patterns lola with a little garment surgery to come up with a fall jacket. many, many years ago i bought a single yard of this wobbly skull flower print off eBay because a) skulls! and b) not a quilting cotton. excitement! sadly, the design was printed onto a really low quality white rib knit and it was therefore banished to the stash for being beautiful when sitting flat, and disappointing in most wearable conformations.
the perils of online fabric shopping
anyways, during a recent
sort of lululemon-for-the-strange-ish?
i used my adjusted minoru pattern for the base, and the waistline curve of the lola dress as a cutting line for the printed pieces. things got temporarily derailed when i forgot to add extra length to the front printed piece to accommodate what would be removed by my side seam bust dart (oops)…and without enough fabric to recut, i ended up having to steepen the angle of the back curve to compensate. which is a shame, because i think the more pronounced front curve of the lola dress pattern is nicer :p
i also cut two identical sleeves despite checking 83 times to be sure they were mirror images, bah!
to assemble the body, i used full length front and back pieces of black french terry together with the cropped printed pieces. i stacked the printed piece on top of the french terry to traced the curve, then drew another line 1" above the first curve. finally, with the printed piece flipped upside down, i stitched the cropped piece to the french terry at a 1/2" seam allowance, using the second line to line up the raw bottom edge of the printed piece. and voila! simultaneous underlining and edge finishing!
you guys don't know the thrill i get from piecing things together like this! :) :)
because both fabrics are pretty drapey i interfaced the collar with a scrap of woven fusible interfacing, and also added a strip of bias tape to the neckline seam for extra stability. since i opted to make it underlined (instead of lined, as the pattern instructs), i used the collar underlining as a facing and slipstitched it over the neck seam allowances for a tidy finish :)
wobbly skull flowers up close
it was pretty eye-opening to see the difference between the knit fabric and the woven of my first version! i scrapped the vertical bands--nearly 4" of width--because the centre front magically ended up in the right place without them. which just goes to show how different wearing ease can be between a knit fall jacket and a fitted winter coat! looking at the pictures now, i think the side seam could definitely be taken in a wee bit at the hips to improve the overall proportion.
classic west coast zip up
so! it was super refreshing to just play around with some pattern pieces and stash fabric--especially with a low stress garment like a knit jacket. ive never really been into sewing basics when i need a break from more complex garments (when given the chance i will overcomplicate the simplest a-line skirt!), but using familiar patterns for casual wear definitely was the perfect change of scenery :) :)