she was right! also, i may have been bitten by a vintage bug there
butterick 5895, aka gertie's retro-inspired separates pattern, took me exactly 2 hours from opening the envelope to hemming the cuffs of a test pair. which was fantastic for me, as ive been trying to establish some basic patterns i can knock out for work (when there exists the chance your pants will be forever ruined by wayward science, one does not bust out the oscar de la renta fabrics for adventures in bespoke pantsmaking). now. my favourite thing to make is definitely the super structural finely detailed sorta handiwork, but the one RTW garment i've purchased this year (out of some necessity) turned out to be the extremely disappointing, off-grain, poor quality, expensive pair of pants that broke the camels back. because of this, and also with the conversation on fashion revolution day questioning the ethics by which pants such as these go from cotton plants to fall fashions, ive started making more of the basic garments in my wardrobe.
step 1: make better pants to reduce waste and know definitively they were not made under terrible working conditions. step 33071: keep small alpaca farm and make wool pants on solar powered sewing machine? :) :) :)
so ANYWAYS! i needed pants, i made pants. based on the pattern ease i decided to go down a size to get a more legging-y fit, then promptly cut the test pants from non-stretch fabric. the resulting forest green sausage casing alerted me to two new facts: 1. my vertical measurements seem to be a size or two smaller than my horizontal measurements and 2. holy toledo on a short, short-waisted person that is one. HIGH. WAIST.
as in, its more of a neckline
thing the first: while they were cant-bend-my-knees tight, the crotch curve was perfect! the fit through the hips and legs would probably have been bang on with a bit of lycra in there, and honestly i do prefer the stretch recovery and flexibility offered by even 2-3% of that fancy fiber...so not much to change there. the other issue was the waistband--on me that sucker went straight up to my bra, which, since i planned on wearing these with longer-length tops, was a tad unnecessary. so! i scrapped the waistband altogether for the pictured version, although i think it still needs to have another inch or two hacked off as it cuts into my stomach when i sit down. no good!
restrictive waistband = not cupcake compatible :(
i used a 9oz denim found locally, which is nice and sturdy if lacking in my beloved lycra content, and let the side seams out about 1/4". since i omitted the waistband, i finished the top edge first using petersham ribbon, then using twill tape…THEN using the denim fabric as a small facing. i really was in love with the idea of having red polka dot ribbon finishing the inside of these pants but think this is probably an application reserved for garments either less fitted or requiring less mobility. even with some work yet to do on perfecting the waist though, these pants have seen a bunch of wear. i find they pair equally well with fancy shoes, chuck taylors, and boots. :)
they also go with my simplicity 4487 shirt, which is a shameless near-identical replica of a project i saw hanging at the fabric store years ago. it had skulls!
after wearing this pair around they have stretched out a lot, and ive noticed the front rise has developed vertical folds of excess fabric, which is pretty bulky-looking from the three layers of denim across that area (pocket + inside of pocket + pants front). i've already got a couple other versions planned, using a stretch twill or stretch denim and also drafting out the front pockets, and i'm curious to see how this area will be affected by stretchy fabric and having less reinforcement in the area. experiments, whee!
im envisioning a polka dot brushed stretch denim pair, but that fabric does not seem to exist.
maybe its a good thing there will be more of these fantastic pants, as i apparently have a lot of different things to say about them! :p